Chef Chad Brauze, An Alum of the Kitchens of Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller, Comes Into His Own at Bevy
“40 Most Anticipated Restaurant Openings of 2017: Bevy.”
We love Rotisserie Georgette in Manhattan for many reasons, not the least of which was turning us on to the talents of its one-time chef Chad Brauze.
An alum of the kitchens of Daniel Boulud (Daniel), Thomas Keller (Per Se), and Ferran Adria (el Bulli) — not to mention Columbia University and the Culinary Institute of America — Brauze has cooked in some of the world’s best restaurants, and his expert technique reflects that fact.
Brauze’s menu at Rotisserie Georgette showcased what happens when great technique meets the kind of comforting dishes you’d want to eat any night of the week in Manhattan — including one of our two favorite farrottos (along with Travis Swikard‘s at Boulud Sud) in Manhattan.
While we’re still enamored of current co-chefs Stephanie Abrams & Francisco Blanco‘s cooking at Rotisserie Georgette, Chad Brauze has clearly raised his game at elegant newcomer Bevy in the Park Hyatt and come into his own.
Brauze offers an array of addictive starters (or “Bar Bites,” as they’re called on Bevy’s menu), with our favorites being the Sweet Potato Chips with French Onion Dip ($9) and Housemade Lavash with Spicy Green Pea Hummus ($10).
We’re not sure we’ve ever tasted a better version of Steak Fries ($10) than the crunchy paprika-dusted version Brauze serves with garlic aioli. Fellow plant lovers will swoon over Brauze’s side dishes, including two wild mushroom preparations not to mention some of the best green peas we’ve ever had anywhere. Our friends all sang the praises of Bevy’s Green Circle Chicken (courtesy of D’Artagnan), which is stuffed with bourbon and rye berries, and presented tableside (whole) before it is carved, plated, and served with dressed lettuces ($78, it serves 2+).
Best of all, through multiple visits in recent weeks, we now have a new contender for our favorite “interpretive” risotto in Manhattan, making it a three-way contest: Brauze’s creamy Einkorn Risotto with Morel Cream, Mint, Fava Beans, Asparagus, and Vin Jaune ($22). Its luxurious array of flavors and textures and temperatures is not-to-be-missed.
Brauze’s savory cuisine alone is well worth the visit to Bevy, but if you also have a sweet tooth you will be richly rewarded at dessert time thanks to executive pastry chef Scott Cioe‘s talents. An alum of restaurants of Thomas Keller, Michael Mina, and Gordon Ramsay, Cioe has chosen eclairs as his muse for showcasing flavor combinations suggestive of carrot cake, pineapple upside-down cake, even birthday cake — not to mention frozen chocolate and “The King” (peanut butter + banana + bacon; in Elvis’s honor, it’s even served with a crown).
But Cioe’s crowning achievement, in these two diners’ opinions, is his mind-blowing Apple Pie ($13) made with a sugar cookie crust and vanilla bean ice cream, with warm caramel sauce poured over the creation tableside. At our table during every dinner, forks crashed into one another fighting for the last bites.
Bevy’s wine director Tristan Prat-Vincent is an alum of Veritas and Betony. We’ll always be grateful to him for turning us on to Trousseau Noir (a light-bodied, food-friendly red) and — so far — two excellent producers (of the three on his list). On our last visit we thought we’d give Bevy’s appealing cocktail menu a whirl, but we’ll be back to check out the third.
Indeed, there is no shortage of reasons to return to Bevy, including excellent service (especially if you’re lucky enough to land Amanda as your server, as we were on two of our visits) and a sleek, elegant ambiance highlighted by the “Swarm,” a chandelier-cum-art installation (which we were told is one of just 11 in the world) whose constantly changing, fluid lighting patterns bring to mind the movement of a swarm (or “bevy”) of birds.
The Park Hyatt has operated superior restaurants in Washington, DC (Blue Duck Tavern) and Chicago (NoMi) for years, but Bevy appears to be setting a new high bar for excellence among Park Hyatt restaurants. Thanks to an especially gifted team, we fully expect that Bevy will become known for setting a new high bar for Manhattan hotel dining as well.
Bevy is in the Park Hyatt Hotel at 153 W. 57th Street, 3rd Floor, in New York City. 212.897.2188. BevyNYC.com